Recently I’ve been in two minds about what topic to address next through the pages of this blog. Clearly the new churnalism.com website has serious implications for how I peddle my dubious services, and is something I really ought to turn my mind to. But there is another subject laying restlessly on my mind at the moment, something which affects a great many more people and goes right to the heart of English life. That is, of course, the confusion surrounding the rights and wrongs of gentlemanly headwear.
So, in a bid to help every man who inadvertently slipped beneath a trilby when a fedora was desirable, I am here to set the record straight.
Let us begin in the country, which is always where the best adventures occur.
A man should have at least two caps. That’s the first thing you need to know; one in brown tweed, to match your brown tweet suit, and a green one to match the other suit. That’s the green one by the way, in case you’re wondering.
Now, it’s not imperative that these caps match precisely the pattern of the suit, but it is important the colours are complimentary or you will look idiotic and will expose yourself as an amateur. Of course if you are buying a new tweed suit and a matching cap is available, or better still you’re having one cut, get the cap; believe me you’ll regret it if you don’t. But if you have to buy them separately, take your time and take advice and you should be able to find a useful match.
A general word on tweed by the way, observe that time-honoured adage of “brown for town”. The rules that govern gentlemanly sartorial matters, while not entirely concrete, were devised by men who knew what it was to be profoundly well dressed and it is not for you or I to question them. Ours is not to reason why, ours but to do … etcetera, etcetera.
Also, do not be tempted by an overly-gaudy pattern. Certainly these have come to the fore recently and many are not to be despised. But just as many are, and buying one in a bid to look like an eccentric will result in nothing of sort, instead you will look bourgeois, and that is the worst kind of sin. It is the narrowest line of judgement that sorts the chaps from the boys.
Finally on caps, there has been a trend recently of wearing flat caps in town, possibly black or grey check in colour, with denim, casual suits or other informal attire. This is to be applauded provided the wearer can evoke sufficient aplomb. White flat caps, and most certainly baseball caps, are not however. Never, ever wear them, even if attending a fancy dress party which as a man of dignity, you wouldn’t do.
There is a time and place where matching a tweed cap with a tweed suit is not appropriate, and that of course is at the races. Here a brown, felt, trilby from one London’s great hatters (the choice really extends only to James Lock & Co Ltd or Christys’) is the only option.
An interesting fact about racing trilby’s, I’m sure you’ll agree, is that they often look too small for the wearer – particularly if it’s on an older gentleman. This is because they shrink with age, so when you buy one, make sure it is of sufficient circumference to allow for this. Also, such is their robustness that if looked after correctly they are considered a inheritable item, and therefore many a dedicated racing man my well be wearing the hat handed down to him by his father.
A word of caution about the racing trilby – never wear one with a leather jacket, or carrying a whip. After all, we’re not stars of the silver screen with an archaeological bent. In the films, Mr Ford does not actually wear a racing trilby, but the likeness is sufficient for people not be recognise the difference.
Other advice while in the country – don’t wear a deerstalker unless you’re stalking deer and, a personal one I must admit, men under 40 shouldn’t wear a tweed trilby as they are very aging. In a twist of irony, young women often can carry off a houndstooth trilby to very dashing effect, particularly if combined with other clothing closely associated with riding or other country pursuits. Pulling off the desired effect, however, again takes judgement and that is not something all young women are blessed with by any means.
A panama is of course the only headwear for the summer months, when tweed is too heavy a cloth, and I look forward every year to the first day mine comes out the waredrobe. Be careful matching it with linen though. One would assume the two are made for each other, and that is the case, but throw them together without due care and you could find yourself facing the old “Man from Delmonte” dilemma, which is not desirable. Similarly a boater may be acceptable, if worn with a blazer and bow tie, but the effect can be a little too contrived for my liking.
Clearly, we should all obey that time-honoured adage to: “A gentleman never wears a straw hat in the metropolis,” so please keep the Panama and Boater confined to the country, old Europe cities or former colonial states where the temperature is high.
It is only when getting into these matters that one realises just how much can be written on what hat to wear where and when, and it is for this reason I have decided to deal with headwear etiquette in the urban landscape on another day. Time is, after all, required to absorb all that is contained here first. But learn it well and you will be ready for the next instalment soon. You will also be holding in trust the work, values and spirit of the true English gentleman and that has to be the highest aspiration a man can image, regardless of his background or nationality.
