Contemplations On The Pocket Square

Hardy Amies made a good point when he wrote: “A man should look as if he had bought his clothes with intelligence, put them on with care and then forgotten all about them.”

It is something, as gentlemen, we should all strive to live by but nowhere does it fall down more than in the sartorial application of a pocket square.

This particular adornment is a favourite of mine and it is enjoying somewhat of a revival at the moment, even among younger men, which is most encouraging. Donning one can say a lot about the wearer however, and never more so than if one gets it wrong.

With this in mind, below is a guide to correctly preparing a handkerchief for the breast pocket (as demonstrated by Mr O Toole above). But before we get to that, let us return to Amies and remind ourselves of his opinions on the subject.

“Note the name,” says he. “It signifies something that is to be handled. This brings us to the principle that the arrangement of the handkerchief in the breast pocket must be done in such a way that it gives the appearance of being there for use and not decoration, although this latter function is important.”

Essentially Amies’ words provide the most powerful argument against the array of intricate methods employed to fold the pocket square, often, it has to be noted, favoured by Americans. Multiple prongs, twists, triangles or crowns all violate the fundamental rule of utility first, decoration second, and, what is far worse, lends more than an air of bourgeois to the wearer. In simple terms, employ such a fold and you look like you are trying much too hard.

To avoid this, follow these simple instructions which not only produce the perfect pocket square every time, but can be easily carried whenever the handkerchief needs adjusting.

First, take one corner of the pocket square between the thumb and first finger of whichever hand you prefer and let the rest of the handkerchief hang down.

Then take the next corner and tuck that in with the other, between the thumb and finger. Repeat this with the other two corners until you have what loosely resembles an upside-down parachute.

Keeping the corners held securely, take the lower portion of the handkerchief and fold it up in front of the corners, ensuring it remains billowed.

Tuck this into the breast pocket, with the corners facing to the back, and adjust the height and ensure it looks neat.

A few words on your choice of hank. Never choose one that is the same colour as your tie as this lacks imagination and takes matching too far and, if possible, try to wear one of a different material. Silk is preferable, but cotton and linen are acceptable.

Wear a white handkerchief with black tie and a white shirt, but a coloured one with a coloured shirt. Also, have a couple of paisley hanks in your collection as they go with almost everything and retain an air of elegance.

Finally, usage. As gentlemen we all know the pocket square is principally employed to dry the tears of weeping damsons everywhere. Never, under any circumstances, carry a second hank in your trouser pocket to fulfil that purpose. How is the object of your attention to know what use it has been previously concerned with? Retrieving a crumpled cloth from the trouser pocket that isn’t worthy of public display demonstrates that you are more concerned with your appearance than with her well-being and in an age when chivalry is a scarcity, that chaps, just isn’t cricket.